60’s psychedelia all bubbly in pastels and acid tones, elegant gentlemens' scarves and pocket silks, finely woven wool shawls with intricate patterns in muted autumnal shades, luxurious eastern silks and common calicos, cowboy cotton neckerchiefs in navy or red………From the dizzying fashion heights of Pucci palazzo pants down to the humble pair of pyjamas………Paisley rules ok.
It is the most popular, versatile and enduring of patterns and has sat comfortably and securely in all the above settings across time and continents.
The ‘Boteh’ or ‘Buta’ motif originated in India and Persia possibly as far back as the 3rd century. It is believed to be a stylized form of leaf or sprouting bud. As the shape was adopted by different cultures its symbolism varied. In parts of India and Pakistan the shape is seen as related to the mango fruit, while in the west it has been known as a teardrop, cone or pine and in the UK persian pickles and welsh pears!
In 19th Century, the British East India Company introduced to Britain hand-woven boteh motif shawls from Kashmir. These costly garments were treasured for their exoticism, craftsmanship and beauty. Increasing demand and technical advancements eventually led to the manufacture of reproductions at home.
With the acquisition of the jacquard loom, Paisley, a small town in Scotland undertook fast and cheap production of such shawls for the mass market. So successful was this approach that production elsewhere in England and Scotland was more or less eclipsed. The pattern became synonymous with the town, hence we now have the paisley scarf rather than the norwich or edinburgh scarf.
Alongside animal prints, velvet, sequins and lurex, paisley is retro royalty and nowhere does it flourish more than on the scarf or shawl, the perfect canvas to showcase the infinite possibilities of this timeless pattern.
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The marinière, the striped Breton shirt from his childhood which he continually subverts. The influence of Paris, displayed on a moving catwalk carousel and the love of London and its sub-cultures of punk and rock. And ofcourse the corset as immortalized by Madonna. These themes and much more are all explored.
The detailing of his creations are breathtaking and you can get really close to admire the finesse.
Engaging touches include the soundtrack of Gaultier speaking to his audience and the projections of faces on the mannequins making them curiously life like.
See the full photo album on Facebook
See Barbican for details. Exhibition ends August 25th 2014.
]]>Wondering through the loosely themed floors (Oriental, African, Fashion, Imperial France, etc) we immediately got snapping….alas armed only with a tiny camera.
See all the photos on our Pinterest board.
Get a feel of the experience and maybe chance upon a deal yourself. We used hotelbookings.com
Other artistic delights in the region included Museé Matisse and the much recommended Fondacion Maeght in Antibes, where architecture, modern art and the great outdoors combine in perfect harmony.
The Hotel Negresco
La Nana Jaune - Niki de Saint Phalle in the grand reception
René Gruau fashion illustration
René Gruau fashion illustration
Moi,…….taking it all in (on the right)
Louis Armstrong painting (photographed with artist in the tiny photo within)
Op Art carpets contrast with the neo-classical on the Imperial Floor (Napoleon on the left)
…………..heeeeer's Grace
]]>The exhibition (at the museum founded by Zandra Rhodes) highlights the exploration into textiles by twentieth century artists such as Dali, Picasso and Warhol as they sought to make their work less elitist and more relevant to the people.
For those who are unable to visit, here are some photo highlights of the clothing and fabrics on view.
See our post on facebook for all 29 photos
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Elements of this style have been appropriated or subverted by designers including Vivienne Westwood and John Galliano. Remember the ubiquitous Dior ‘saddle bag’?
Brands such as Polo Ralph Lauren, Longchamp and Coach have gone even further to extend the equine associations beyond inspiration and directly into their brand names and logos.
No such invention was required by Hermès. The French brand originated as a harness workshop in the 1800’s creating expert saddles for the most privileged. In the 1920’s handbag production began and in 1937 the silk scarf was introduced. Riding equipment par excellence is still crafted today, but it is the silk scarf that is universally cherished. Seasonally adorned with horses, and related ephemera, it gives a glimpse into the world of the landed gentry without the required country pile and stables.
Hunting, horse racing, dressage and the cavalry are all common themes incorporated in the design of the equestrian silk scarf. Central, but not necessarily present is the horse, while the riding crops, straps, bits, bridles and buckles are the symbols that appear in popular pattern formations.
The ‘horsey look’ came to the fore in the 1980’s with the rise of the Sloane Ranger. While the velvet alice band may not have made a comeback, the equestrian aesthetic endures and has certainly entered the vintage firmament.
Equestrian scarves are an ever popular style in our online collection of over 700 vintage silk scarves:
Visit our Store and browse ‘Equestrian’ in Scarves or visit our Ebay Store and check out the ‘Themed’ scarves.
]]>Age 12, I was sneaking kitten heels into my school bag, slipping them on once the street corner had been turned. Pointed toes, steep wedge soles, conical heels, bizarre colours..........shoes needed to have 'something' about them, otherwise what was the point.
Time has clearly moved on and so it seems that no matter how wonderful a pair of shoes look, I demand the freedom to be able to walk. Walk, not totter with tentative steps, but to stride rhythmically with confidence, to appear composed and at ease in one's environment..........and at the very least capable of staying upright!
A fashionista at heart, I will always appreciate the aesthetics of a precariously slim heel or vertiginous wedge, angled suggestively in a high end shoe store. My eyes will be drawn to the wonderful arc of stilettoed feet slanted beneath a café table. But oh, how an illusion is shattered upon watching an ill-equipped wearer painstakingly navigating the treacheries of road and pavement, devoid of all the elegance those shoes so deceptively once promised.
It is these feelings that inform my buying when I am sourcing vintage shoes. I want shape, colour and character but remain completely receptive to comfort. Henceforth, Marshmallow Mountain classic styles include lace-ups, brogues, loafers and mary-janes..........more often than not with mid-height heels.
The quality of a good vintage shoe is beyond compare with high street brands or indeed many so called 'luxury brands'. Italian and French craftsmanship, soft leather uppers, leather soles and leather linings all add to the superior look and feel. If they have been worn a couple of times, then that's all the better.....let someone else do any 'breaking in'.
The vintage shoes selected for our vintage store are in fabulous condition. They have been thoroughly cleaned and often re-heeled. Each pair has been tried on to test for comfort, size and fit. We are then able to give the modern day 'estimated size' (which often differs the 'label size'). We can also tell you if the fit is wide, average or slim (this being more informative than mere measurements)
Shoes are part of our DNA, which is unusual for a vintage store where a few pairs are generally just tacked on. Many of our customers have been loyal for years, enjoying the comfort, the fit and the styles we choose and no doubt the superb value.
All the vintage shoes shown are featured or have been featured in the Marshmallow Mountain online store or the ebay store
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It's a great way to use those tiny pocket silk squares and neckerchief scarves that have wonderful prints but are not such a practical size to wear on the neck.
The look is both flirty and decadent and can be unisex too.
Tip:
Tip:
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It's fun and flexible to up-cycle the two by twisting the silk scarf and attaching it to the handbag loops to make a shoulder strap.
Adjust the length to suit and alternate the scarves for colour and variety.
Tips:
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I recently saw the exhibition 'Club to Catwalk' at the V&A museum which celebrates the link between London's emerging club scene in the 1980's and the breakthrough designers of the day.
On display were creations by Katherine Hammnet, John Galliano, Betty Jackson and Vivienne Westwood set against the backdrop of the New Romantic, Fetish, High Camp and Acid House scenes.
The experience evoked personal fashion memories of pagan prints, baggy androgynous long coats and cropped hair, huge exotic knits, doctor martins and 501's. I've set out below pieces from the Marshmallow archive that give a feel for what was generally being worn on the streets and in the not so exclusive clubs at the time.
The exhibition runs at the Victoria & Albert museum, London until February 16th 2014.
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It was on a recent trip to the south of France last month that my partner and I passed a countryside boot fair. As the sellers were packing up, we stopped and glanced half-heartedly at the event and saw an elderly gentleman standing over a small collection of shoes. No one seemed particularly interested in his wares.
On inspection we saw the shoes were fabulous! They were all 80s deadstock (unused vintage) and included sandals, pumps and those wonderful stacked heel loafers.
Neither speaking the other's language, we still managed to 'converse' and discovered that in the 1980's the seller used to own an upmarket boutique which he later closed. Remaining from this time was a garage full of old boxed shoes......... he asked if we were free to meet him at the garage the following week?
Well..........we sure did and in that large garage (which incidentally housed an impressive wine cellar), we uncovered amidst the dust, many more all-leather Italian made shoes boxed and un-boxed in a variety of colours and sizes.
This former boutique owner (.....now estate agent) said he preferred the property market to fashion retail. Despite this we can say he certainly remains a man of taste with the eye for quality and craftsmanship.
Upon much horse-trading, we were thankfully able to bring back the very best shoes making this exciting find available to our discerning customers.
All the shoes from our haul will be uploaded here and in our ebay store over the next couple of weeks.
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I loved this exhibition. I was there for the 10am opening (with ticket) although tickets were available for the early birds. Three hours flew by as I was bathed in the audio visual soup of Bowie music, clothing and insights into the workings of this artistic genius. A huge fashion icon that has inspired so many creatives over four decades.
A small tribute from Marshmallow Mountain to one of our Heroes!
The exhibition runs until 11th of August 2013. If you are unable to visit then get hold of this fantastic commemorative book that the V&A have produced to accompany the exhibition.
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